Bio-load - Biological Load. The waste output of organisms that must be processed by the bio-filter. In a balanced system, the bio-load does not exceed the ability of the Bio-filter to process all the waste. See Cycle.
bioload / bio-load
Term that describes how much waste is produced by the organisms in your aquarium. The heavier your bioload, the more filtration & circulation you need.
Of course, LOW bio-loads will decrease (but not eliminate) the need for water changes, while HIGH bio-loads will increase the need for water changes UNLESS THESE TWO FACTORS ARE OTHERWISE ADDRESSED.
Once again as a tank ages and the corals and fish grow the bio-load of the tank increases, that will cause a larger production of these compounds to occur.
It couldn't even turn around, and that is not to mention the bio-load an Oscar has...
You need to contemplate is that enough space for the fish you are thinking of getting. Do they have the swimming room they need? Are they active, fast fish?
Other factors that influence whether fish will be affected by high water temperatures are the number (bio-load) and species of fish kept in the tank.
The addition of a 3" Naso Tang contributes very little to the bio-load of the aquarium in comparison to a 9" Naso Tang - probably about 1/27th.
Slowly add fish to your tank. Never go out and buy a bunch of tropical fish because your tank's bio-load won't be able to handle it. Slowly adding fish gives your tanks biological filtration a chance to catch up.
Could you post some more info on stocking Planted Tanks? Like, not recommended fish/algae eaters, but post what bio-load of fish Planted tank are good with?
Nor is it a good idea to add new fish, plants, structures, or anything else that would increase the bio-load or alter the pH of the water just prior to departure.
Those bacterial colonies need time to adjust to changes in the bio-load. By introducing fish a few at a time, the bacterial colonies have sufficient time to grow and take care of the toxins produced by the fish waste.
They will also place a huge bio-load on your tank. If you decide to get an eel, make sure you do your research and are absolutely sure what kind you are getting.
With such a "bio-load" from a theoretical point of view a larger
water change (timing is correct to me!) could/should help, but ... water chemistry sounds good. What is most important is that things seems to work OK.
Add two-four Ghost Shrimp, and hey-presto you have you ghost shrimp colony. Ghost shrimp add very little to a bio-load, and eat absolutely anything. They require no special needs, probably the easiest 1 gallon you can keep! ...
Nothing more than lots of sand at the bottom of the tank, with nothing underneath it.
Most DSB depths range from 2" to 6", depending on how tall your tank is, how much swim room you need for your fish,
and how heavy a bio-load you anticipate to ...
Drain off 10 - 25% of your total pond volume, and replace it with fresh, new dechlorinated water. If possible, vacuum or drain decaying organic matter and debris off the bottom to reduce the ponds bio-load.
This slow addition allows time for the relatively small bacteria culture on your filter to grow until it can handle the increased bio-load.
IMO, stable conditions and low bio-loads go a long was towards healthy fish.
Be sure to remove the shrimp or whatever was used as bait as soon after the capture as possible, because it will decay and increase the bio-load on the tank.
 See also: Fish, Water, Bio, Aquarium, Filter
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