Fish load : General rule of thumb : Three cm of fish length per 4 liters of water. If rocks and other decorations are added, you have to apply this rule for the actual water volume. This rule applies to fish up to 4 cm in length.
Fish load depends on plant growth, tank's surface area, and water movement/aeration. Tanks with more fish provide plants with more nutrients and CO2. Conversely, tanks with robust plant growth can hold more fish.
Of fish loads and nitrogen
by Elizabeth Worobel (Thu, 24 Oct 1996)
Too Much Light ?!?!?
by spush-at-atc-1s.hac.com (Stephen Pushak) (28 Sep 1996)
Who sold PMDD
by Kevin Conlin (Tue, 05 Nov 1996) ...
Maintain a fish load, feeding schedule, and water change schedule that will keep the NO3 levels below 25ppm.
Although all aquariums have some amount of natural biological filtration occurring on the surface of the gravel bed, it is usually far too little to handle the fish load. A dedicated biological filter is significantly more effective.
Antennarius hispidus (Shaggy angler) Is a slow moving fish loaded with some very "High Tech" gear. It most of its time walking along the bottom of the tank using its downward facing pectoral fins as front legs and its pelvic fins as hind legs.
Carbon contents in tank water can vary depending on fish load (respiration), surface agitation (gas exchange) and of course plant uptake.
An aquarium with low to moderate fish load, many rapidly growing plants and excellent lighting (three to five watts per gallon) may need a full-blown "fertilizer" - especially if carbon dioxide is being added to the tank.
The use of modern packaging technology to increase fish loading density and post shipment survival is critical to the industry. The accumulation of metabolic waste limits fish loading density. Several methods are available to reduce this build-up.
I had it on a 29 gallon planted aquarium with a heavy fish load and it couldn't keep up. Debris and mulm started to accumulate on the bottom of my tank.
Lower planting densities and less rapidly growing plants will have lowered ammonia absorption, and such tanks will rely upon bacterial oxidation of ammonia with normal fish loads.
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Doing 30% to 50% water changes every week, depending on fish load, is important. They need a lot of caves near the bottom of the tank for retreating, several places at varying intervals work well.
If you are striving for a reef system that has at least one pound of live rock per gallon of water and a low fish load then a Wet Dry without its bio-media is the suggested way to go.
having too small a filter for the fish load, etc.
Be warned: if you have fish deaths and subsequently ask the net (or a fish store) for advice, the first question asked will be ``What are your ammonia (and nitrite) levels?''.
Eg.1 For a 24"L X 12"W, tank, you can go up to 15"H.
When the sand goes in later to a height of 3", you willl end up with a max. water height of 12".
If you must have a super tall tank, keep the fish load lower as in a standard height tank.
tank, a bacteria bloom is less likely to happen and any ammonia spikes may be gone in 24 hours - often before you even have time to test for it. In new tanks, the time the ammonia takes to be converted by bacteria depends on the amount of fish load ...
housing fish because they usually have a large surface area for gas exchange. However, so-called "tall" tanks which have little surface area are less suitable and strong aeration is required. Generally, tall tanks cannot support as large a fish load ...
is for me a useful measure of the general pollution level in the tank. The other pollutants are much harder to measure, impractical at home, so nitrate serves as general pollution indicator in other than heavily planted tanks with light fish loads.
 See also: Fish, Water, Aquarium, Filter, Plants
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