(M) iodine as reef additive
by morss/eksignal.kodak.com (Charlie Morss) (Tue, 7 Jan 92)
Need info on iodine
by mar/athena.mit.edu (Mark A. Rosenstein) (7 Jan 92)
(M) iodine as reef additive ...
Iodine in the Ocean
Iodine in the ocean takes a wide variety of forms, both organic and inorganic, and the iodine cycles between these various compounds are very complex and are still an active area of research.
Iodine
One of the halogen gasses and a constituent in seawater. Iodine based disinfectants are commonly used in aquaculture, these are collectively known as iodophores.
Iodine and Iodide
In natural seawater, Iodine occurs at 0.06 ppm. It is important to supplement iodine because it is quickly used up by the tank inhabitants and the protein skimmer.
Iodine: A trace element necessary to life in very small quantities, but deadly at higher concentrations. Because it is removed by protein skimming, it must be added regularly on skimmed tanks.
Iodine
An aquarium that contains many soft corals requires a great deal of iodine supplementation. This is, usually, added in the form of diluted potassium iodide. The more soft corals you have, the more iodine you will need to add.
Iodine: A diatomic molecule consisting of two iodine elements. It is needed by reef invertebrates. Protein skimming may deplete the supply, so additions are quite necessary.
Iodine: A trace element found in seawater necessary in small quantities for some reef invertebrates, particularly corals and clams.
Ichthyophthirius: or Ick: see cryptocaryon.
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Iodine is a halogen, and is required for vertebrates in its ionic form. Iodine is the element; iodide is the ionic form. Do not confuse either of those with "tincture of iodine" which is a topical antiseptic and quite toxic.
Iodine is consumed by all aquarium inhabitants and should be maintained at 0.06 ppm with a liquid supplement.
All other major and minor trace elements should be maintained both through regular water changes, and with the use of a liquid supplement.
Iodine - A trace element found in seawater which is needed in small quantities for reef invertebrates especially corals.
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Iodine
Growth, poor
Biotin, Calcium, Choline, Energy, Fat, Folic Acid, Inositol, Niacin, Pantothenic Acid, Protein, Pyrodoxine, Riboflavin, Thiamin, Vitamin A, Vitamin B12, Vitamin C, Vitamin E ...
The iodine number gives you an indication of how micro-porous the carbon is. Typically you want an iodine number around 1000. The molasses number gives an indication of how macro-porous the carbon is and a molasses number around 225 should work fine.
Iodine is required for vertebrates (Iodine is a halogen). "Iodine is necessary for metabolism as an essential part of thyroid hormone, which is our metabolic pacemaker" -quote from a doctor friend.
Iodine is a possible exception. Iodine can reduce stress in corallimorpharians and encourage rapid growth of coralline algae. If your mushrooms and coralline algae are healthy, don't bother with it.
Shrimps need iodine to properly molt, as well as calcium . If you do not change water regularly (which you should), or if you do not feed live or frozen food frequently, then you may need to supplement your water with iodine.
Lots of people have had great success with Lugol's Formula Iodine. When using such additives always dose per instruction on the product. If one over doses on iodine the results can be very harmful to all corals in the system.
I've quit adding Strontium or Iodine separately, and am now dosing 1/2 teaspoon of Combisan every other day. Strontium and Moybdenum I generally use the Kent Marine preparation for this, adding a couple teaspoons a week.
Feed food which is high in Iodine as this helps it moult. Kelp tablets are one source.
[edit] Feeding regime
Once a day.
[edit] Environment Specifics
It requires hard hard water to develop its shell correctly.
Also the quantity of Iodine in table salt is so small it will have no effect on the fish or plant.
Some of the more easier to keep invertebrates, such as shrimps, also need regular supplements of iodine and other trace elements. Most foods will supply the necessary amounts of these elements.
Often the lesion is scraped free of fungus and iodine (povidone iodine, not tincture of iodine) can be applied. Other drugs that are used to treat human fungal infections may also be used. These require daily treatments for several weeks.
On any given day, our tap water may contain fluoride, iodine, chlorine, chloramine, and traces of: potassium permanganate, magnesium sulfate, nickel sulfate, copper sulfate, various heavy metal-nitrate complexes, as well as pollutants such as lead, ...
They also need smaller amounts of iron, iodine, magnesium, sodium, potassium, copper, and zinc. Calcium is found in hard water, and phosphorus is found in live plants.
You need to be able to supply calcium, carbonates, magnesium, strontium, iodine and other trace minerals. The calcium you need in large quantities as that is what the corals use to maintain their limestone exoskeleton.
There are two ways in conditioning the water, some suggest using 3 1/2 tablespoons of salt without iodine for each gallon of water and some prefer to use Epsom salt mixed with a just a pinch of baking soda.
Iron levels might be of interest to an aquatic plant enthusiast, while calcium, strontium, iodine and many other elements might be important to some reefkeepers.
Test Kits (BASIC: pH, Ammonia, NitrITE, NitrATE. RECOMMENDED: kH/Alkalinity, Magnesium, Calcium, Phosphate. ADVANCED: Iodine, Strontium, Boron, Silicate, Copper)
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Nets (Varied sizes) ...
One of the drawbacks to skimmers is that they remove trace elements and iodine which, if needed by any of the aquarium inhabitants, must be replaced periodically.
I DO NOT dose liquid iodine as the shrimp will get all they need from a proper diet.
10. I feed them HBH Vegetable Wafers and HBC Crab & Lobster Bites exclusively.
Hard water and a diet with iodine and calcium is essential for exoskeleton growth. Frozen krill are a great food for these prawns, but they will eat most anything, even their own shell after they molt.
Other equipment needed are the same as any other fish tanks, a good stand, heaters and testing equipment for salt water especially concentrating on high end ph, nitrite, nitrate, ammonia are essential, after that calcium, magnesium and iodine aren't ...
If provided with lots of light ( See reef lighting ), most hermatypic Anthozoans need only an occasional supplemental feeding (apx. once a week), of trace elements (Specifically iodine, molybdenum, strontium, calcium) and an organic coral food.
for short periods of time immediately after adding elements to allow the reef water to have more time to "absorb" these elements. Common trace elements added are strontium, molybdenum, iodine, iodide, borate, magnesium, calcium, and many others.
Although it is often difficult to determine the exact requirement for trace element supplementation, many products that aim to maintain concentrations of iodine and other trace elements are widely used by reefkeepers.
However, if you do decide to treat your fish with salt, it is very important that you use a freshwater aquarium salt, as most salt that is not designed for aquarium fish contains Iodine, a nutrient necessary for people, but often toxic to fish.
And very occasionally I use a wee bit of non-iodine sea salt for spore-element supply; something I do with every tank, even non-Tang tanks (we're talking about half a teaspoon for a hundred liters of fresh water here; a minimal amount.) ...
 See also: Water, Aquarium, Fish, Algae, Species
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