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A bud arising in the leaf axil at a node in the stem, which will develop into a side shoot.
Lax ...

LATERAL REVERSAL - A mirror image, as seen in the viewfinders of some cameras where the scene appears flipped from left to right.

Lateral/Side roots: Lateral roots extend horizontally from the primary root, branching out through the soil and anchoring the plant more securely. Lateral roots may be medium-sized roots (smaller than the taproot) or much finer, smaller roots. They may also help take up nutrients and water.

Lateral bud
Bud forming along the side of a stem or branch rather than at the end
Treating a runner or shoot so it will form roots while still attached to the parent plant ...

Lateral budA bud attached to the side of a stem.LayeringA method of vegetatively propagating woody plants by covering portions of their stems or branches with moist soil or sphagnum moss so that adventitious root will form. The branch is then removed from the parent plant. See air layering.

~ Said of buds which appear along the sides of the twig; at or along the side.
~ bud A bud borne in the axil of a previous season's leaf.
Lath An overhead structure of evenly spaced slats of wood or other materials used to create shade.

~ A branch attached to and subordinate to another branch or trunk.
~ bud A bud on the side, rather than the tip, of a stem.
~ meristem A region where cells divide, located along the length of a stem or root.

~ rootlets on BLTVA infected plant
Statewide IPM Program, Agriculture and Natural Resources, University of California
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~ bud A bud borne in the axil of a leaf or branch; not terminal. Latex Milky sap which exudes from cut surfaces of a few house plants, such as Ficus elastica decora and Euphorbia. Layering A method of propagation in which a stem is induced to send out roots by surrounding it with soil.

~ lines lead from the zone valves to the sprinkler heads. ~ lines are usually made of black polyethylene pipe, or poly-pipe.
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~, fibrous roots can also grow off of a main taproot, such as the root hairs on a carrot.
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~ and secondary roots are those that grow off the primary or other fibrous roots and are usually very small.

Tomato ~s are the side branches that form in-between the main stem and a leaf that is growing on the main stem. These are easy to see when they're young. It's best to pinch them out at this stage rather than leaving them to grow.

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When built and located correctly, fish ponds can add interest and elegance to your back yard and supply a therapeutic source of fun and enjoyment to your garden and for your entire family. The right setting and...
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Pinch out ~ shoots above first node to form an umbrella-like canopy.
Shaping Fuchsias
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Prune out ~ branches that are competing with the central stem. Using sharp pruners, make a clean cut just outside the branch collar, or where the shoot meets the tree. This is called a thinning cut.

Encourage ~ growth
Straight up growth has its limits. New shoots that are allowed or forced to grow straight up produce a chemical inhibitor which prevents their buds from breaking into flowering shoots.

New growth on ~ (side) branches may be cut slightly shorter than that on the leader. Evergreen trees will not recover well if cut back severely.

Systems include ~ pipes that are trenched and connected around the yard to channel drains, area drains and downspouts. This system should extend as close to the street as possible.
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Snowplow wings are ~ extensions of a snowplow blade. The wings allow the blade to be widened to cut a bigger path through the snow. If the blades are engineered… Read More
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(Gr. phyllon, leaf; eidos, form) a winged petiole with flattened surfaces placed ~ly to the stem and functioning as a leaf.phyllotaxy search for term- n. (L. phyllo-, and Gr. taxis, arrangement) the arrangement of the leaves on the stem.

The rising shoots, intended to form young wood should be taken as near the origin of the branch as a good one offers, to allow of cutting away, beyond the adopted ~, a greater quantity of the branch, as it becomes old wood; the newsprung ~s, not wanted for one of these two objects, ...

To do this, find the area along the base of the trunk where it begins to widen and ~ roots start to spread outward. This is called the “root flare'. The root flare is the bottom of the trunk and the top of the root system. On a bare root plant, this will be easy to see.

(tulip), and versatile if it is ~, near the center of the anther as in Crinum spp. (crinum).
Anther - lobed, oblong, bag-like appendage at the top of the filament which produces the pollen grains which develop the male germ cells.

Removing basal leaves or ~ shoots during berry set and the 2-week period following (before adult leafhoppers emerge), as recommended for Botrytis bunch rot management, will normally reduce peak leafhopper populations during the season by 30-50%.

Thinning (cutting selected branches back to a ~ branch or main trunk) is usually preferred over heading back (Figure 1). Trees can be thinned to increase light penetration and encourage turfgrass growth beneath the tree.

Climbers should have their ~s cut back to three or four eyes and any new canes breaking from the base should be eliminated (unless you want to develop a new cane). Species roses (and most shrubs) should be tip pruned each fall. This will encourage new growth from the base.

The strongest ~ cane on either side is pruned to 20 - 30 buds. These two ~s give you a total of 40 to 60 buds. The number of buds that you retain for fruiting is determined by the vigor of the vine. When the vine is weak, leave no more than 40 buds.

In late-May to mid-June, cut back to a pair of strong ~ buds the growing tips of perennials such as fuchsias, dahlias and penstemon and annuals like sunflowers and cosmos. This will encourage the plants to bulk out and produce a stockier plant with more flowers.

A strongly growing tree can carry more fruit, therefore perhaps half of the ~s could be shortened and half left untouched. On a weaker tree, which tends to form fruit buds at the expense of new growth, 2 in 3 of the ~s may be pruned.

Peaches and nectarines bear fruit only from ~ buds on 1-year-old branches. They need more dormant-season pruning than other fruit trees to stimulate growth of new fruiting wood each year and to keep the fruiting wood closer to the trunk.

~ roots will branch off from the taproots and then more ~ roots will form from the initial ~ roots, but the central tap root will remain the largest and burrow down into the soil the deepest. A good example is the common carrot.

For the first three years until fruiting begins, the aim of pruning is to develop the shape by tying in the main stem, or leader, and shortening new sideshoots, or ~s, to three leaves beyond their basal cluster of leaves.
Cut back any shoots that grow from these pruned ~s to one leaf.

Leave three or four ~s in the first year and prune back to two thirds or a half. In the second year, prune back the sub ~s to two thirds or a half and remove other weak or narrow angled ~s.

The other option is to shorten ~ branches only (those growing ~ly from main branches), leaving the main branches in tact.

Maintain the canes and cut through the ~ stems, this will help thicken up the foliage around the canes without shortening the plant. If you want to make the plant broaden out or espalier, then it is important to cut the canes at the required point.

The branches saved last year will need pruning. Each branch will have in turn produced branches, called ~s. On each scaffold branch, save two or three ~s that are at least 6 inches apart. Prune any ~s that are longer than the scaffold branch.

Pruning encourages ~ branching and increases cane strength, so they don't fall over in snow and wind. Pruning should be done early in the growing season to decrease wound time. ~ branches should be cut back to 1-2'. Burn or throw away any clippings.

propagated from non-flowering ~ shoots, although
even shoots that are flowering can be rooted if the buds
or blossoms are removed. It is important that cuttings
are not hard and woody nor soft and flaccid. A semi-ripe
cutting will still be green, but with a purplish or
brownish cast.

When you cut a twig or branch back to the trunk or to a ~ branch, it's important cut at just the right place. Look for a raised bump or rings around the base of the twig or branch and take care to cut just outside it, leaving the ring intact.

Remove faded flower spikes back to nearest new ~ flower spike. When blooming has ceased in the early summer, cut plants back to basal foliage to encourage rebloom in the fall.
More growing information: How to Grow Perennials
Pests: Slugs and snails
Cyclamen mites
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For climbers, which are typically trained onto arbors or other structures, prune back ~s (stems that grow from existing canes, rather than emerging directly from the base of the plant) to between three and five buds.

To provide a sheltered spot, peaches and nectarines are usually trained against walls on ~ wires. They are pruned twice a year in the spring and summer. The first spring after planting a 1- or 2-year-old tree, cut the main stem, leaving one branch on each side, 10 inches above the soil.

Finish by securing all remaining canes to your support. Over the summer regularly deadhead spent flowers that form on the ~s, cutting them back to just above the third or fourth bud from the primary cane. This keeps aggressive ~s under control, so you have less pruning next year.

HABIT: The shape or form of a plant, growing vertical, ~ly, or rounded. It is important to know the habit of a plant so one can expect certain growth patterns.
HABITAT: The kind of environment inhabited by a particular species.

Purple Raspberries and Blackcap Raspberries should be pinched back
when they reach 2 ft. tall in order to promote ~ growth.
Cut the ~s back to 12" during the winter.
Propagating Raspberry Plants ...

Rhizome - A continuously growing horizontal underground stem that puts out ~ shoots from its nodes. Also called rootstock. (Some lawn grasses and irises are rhizome plants.)
Right-of-Way - An area between private property line and the street owned by a town or city.

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Common Rabbit Diseases
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Strip off all leaves halfway up the stem, and plant the tomato so the soil reaches that point. Sometimes Gene will plant ~ly, with the stem parallel to the ground. Referred to as trenching, this method is preferred if plants are leggy.
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Spray off center, and you may create col~ damage. Organic herbicides typically burn down the weed without affecting adjacent grasses and plants. Some organic manufacturers report kill rates in 24 hours.

When growing blackberries, prune first year shoots to a height of 3 feet tall. This forces both stronger and ~ growth. Remove any unwanted suckers.
Remove any dead canes from the bramble.
Remove the fruited canes as soon as they've finished producing.

For complex patterns, such as cordon, which use ~ growth, cut the terminals at the first cordon-about 15-18 inches from the ground. For natural designs, simply tie branches in their natural form without overlapping branches.

The second year, remove main ~ ones that are too crowded and any that cross other ones, and prune out dead or weak growth. In subsequent years, prune to develop an open tree where all branches receive light and good air circulation.

Leaves turn upward and ~ leaf margins roll inward. Leaf symptoms may appear on just a few branches or on the entire plant, depending on the extent of infection of the roots. Usually, the bark at the base of the infected plant dies and can be easily separated from the wood.

The eye color of second instar nymphs is less intense, and their thorax turns yellow and shows small ~ wing pads. With successive molts, the markings on the thorax become more prominent and the wing pads become larger (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4).

Prune dwarf varieties every year the same way you would prune a full-size tree. Maintain its height by cutting back the central leader by 2 to 3 feet (.61-.91 m), depending on the vigor of the tree, to a strong ~.

The same goes for roses, columbine, dahlias, veronicas, salvias and many perennials - and it's true for most annuals as well. Cut them down to a ~ leaf and you may see a new flower already forming.

Always prune to an outward-facing bud so new growth won't crowd the center of the plant. Climbing roses have long-lived canes producing ~ growth from which flowers arise. Climbers bloom mostly on their old growth, thus severe pruning will reduce flowering.

For the home gardener, the easiest methods of propagation are by stem cuttings, layering and division of offsets that sprout ~ly from the base of the plant. It can also be propagated from seeds which are rarely available, and commercially by tissue culture.

Weave and tie in ~ branches, as you would when pleaching. Prune in winter for the first few years to encourage bushy growth and remove new growth on the trunks. Remove the frame once the trees are established and the structure can support itself.

In cool climates, head canes at 8' to 10'. The farther berries are borne from the base of the plant, the smaller they will be at maturity. In winter, remove all ~ shoots that grew within 2' of the ground, and head higher ones to 12 to 15 inches.

See also: See also: What is the meaning of Plant, Growing, Flower, Soil, Branch?

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