Pot-bound - bound, stifled or inhibited from normal growth, by the confines of a container: Root systems become pot bound.
Power surge - interruption of change in flow of electricity.
Primary nutrients - N-P-K.
POT-BOUND -- A plant growing in a pot which is too small to allow proper leaf and stem growth.
POTTING ON -- The repotting of a plant into a proper-sized larger pot which will allow continued root development.
If the tree is pot-bound, the roots will circle - often at the surface, but more likely at the side of the pot or on the bottom.
When re-potted, pot-bound plants rapidly recover from their ordeal, but it is better to
catch them before they go into decline so that strong healthy growth can continue
unchecked.
If the roots are pot-bound -- closely pressed against the side of the container and growing in circles around the inside -- tease them out so they will start growing into the surrounding soil.
Feel free to repot Ficus when they become pot-bound-every two to three years. (Ficus elastica, however, doesn't mind a snug fit.) Figs prefer a light, fast-draining soil of medium fertility, and do well in both compost-based or soilless mixtures.
Remove annuals, tropicals and other cold-sensitive, pot-bound plants from small- to medium-sized containers - top growth, roots, potting mix and all.
Spring is best for re-potting tired or pot-bound plants of all kinds. Apart from some natives - most plants like to have their roots pruned a bit while re-potting - it's a bit like having your toenails clipped - it stimulates growth.
Loosen the roots of pot-bound, container-grown shrubs. After you've eased the plant out of the pot, use a sharp knife to make four slices in the root mass, from top to bottom at even intervals, about an inch deep.
Sometimes leaves turn yellow and drop because plants have outgrown their containers; roots are pot-bound.
All plants eventually need to be repotted or transplanted, so avoid purchasing pot-bound plants that have roots twining about in the container. Before purchasing any plant, remove the container and examine the roots.
Only give the rootball a heavy bashing if it's a seriously pot-bound conifer or other tough-rooted tree/shrub. Never do it with fleshy-rooted plants (such as magnolias) - it'll set them back years.
If the leaves of a potted lily go yellow, they are probably pot-bound and have run out of nutrients. Peruvian lilies are very brittle and should be taken out of the pot with care.
Azaleas bought as house plants for Christmas or Easter may be pot-bound now, so water well then repot them into slightly larger pots, using an ericaceous compost.
In addition, without root pruning, bonsai become pot-bound. Bonsai also need annual or bi-annual repotting. Just as with any plant, bonsai require moisture to survive.
Feed every two weeks with a half-strength fertilizer solution. As the seedlings grow, check their root systems to make sure the roots aren't becoming pot-bound; transplant into a larger pot if necessary.
I suspect that when you take this tree out of the pot it will be "pot-bound" with roots running round and round inside, try to loosen these slightly when you pot it on otherwise it might not enjoy the full benefit of the new space.
the bottom of the ball, use a sharp spade to split the root ball all the way through, halfway up from the bottom. Spread the two halves over a mound of soil in the planting hole. Backfill and water immediately. Container stock that is not pot-bound ...
 See also: Plant, Water, Soil, Flower, Growing
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