Comparison Brilliants as the Basis of Color Grading
Experience has shown that the color of diamonds can be very exactly graded by comparison with master stones.
BRILLIANTS: Another term for paste, strass, crystal, or rhinestones.
BRIOLETTE: An oval or pear-shaped diamond entirely faceted in triangular cuts.
CABACHON: A stone without facets, and shaped like a dome.
Fancy Brilliants
The Brilliant design has been implemented on various shapes resulting in stones such as ovals, hearts, marquise and pears.
Double-cut brilliants (aka "Mazarins") and triple-cut brilliants (Peruzzi cuts) from the 1700s were cushion cuts rather than circular or round cuts.
What Makes Brilliants Better?
The technical reasons why a brilliant cut diamond is usually the best depend on the behaviour of light when it is reflected or refracted at junctions between the media it is travelling through.
Most heart shaped brilliants are purchased as single diamonds, most commonly for solitaire necklaces in sizes of a half carat or above.
Including Russian Brilliants, Russian Stars and others, they are in fact nothing but high quality cubic zirconias. This is not mentioned prominently on their web sites and they will only cop to it when pressed, but that is the fact.
Usually cut in round brilliants to take advantage of high dispersion and R.I.. Zircon is a brittle material and tends to chip easily, particularly along facet junctions.
More than 75% of diamonds sold for engagement rings or in jewelry are round brilliants. The round brilliant diamond is the most brilliant diamond shape in existence.
Brilliants, cut from materials having smaller refractive indices than diamond, (and this group includes nearly all stones other than diamonds) should have steeper back angles and higher tops than the best diamond brilliants have.
The first authenticated fact in the diamond's history was its appearance at a Christie's sale in London on July 14th, 1865, when it was described as "a splendid large diamond known as the Idol's Eye set round with 18 smaller brilliants and a ...
When looking at diamonds with many facets and a highly brilliant cut, such as round brilliants, it is typically impossible to differentiate between SI1 clarity and VS clarity or greater.
The old cut is designed with a different number and arrangement of facets than later became common on brilliants. For this reason, diamonds designed in the old cut don't seem quite as fiery and luminous as brilliants.
More unusually-shaped stones are used for fancy cuts, such as a marquise, pear or heart-shaped diamond. The earliest brilliants had 17 facets on the top of the stone and were called double-cut.
Although most diamonds on the market today are round brilliants, there are many different shapes available. The following chart shows some of the most popular shapes:
POPULAR DIAMOND CUTS AND SHAPES
round ...
That said, red tourmaline is one of the few examples of this gem variety that can be advantageously cut into round, oval, and pear-shaped mixed brilliants.
The second attempt of cutting the stone fashioned it into three principal parts, which were further reduced to 9 major gems, 96 smaller brilliants, and 9.5 carats of unpolished pieces.
With the 19th century came the rounded cuts like the old European cut (OEC, below) and the English round cut (not shown), both of which also have a total of 58 facets of the same type as today's round brilliants.
[Tsavorite gems: brilliant cut trillion, cabochon, step cut emerald cut, marquis brilliants in a ring]
Value ...
STEP-CUT. (Trap-Cut.) A form of cutting employed for stones not deeply coloured when they are not cut as brilliants; a simple typical form is that of a stepped pyramid with the apex sliced off.
Any workman engaged in the cutting and polishing of diamonds. (b) One who rounds up rough diamonds as a step in the fashioning of brilliants.
Diamond Cutting ...
This cut is not as fiery or brilliant as many of the newer cuts, but it has a marvelously romantic and classic look and definitely stands out from the crowd of round brilliants.
Diamond Cutter - (a) Any workman engaged in the cutting and polishing of diamonds. (b) One who rounds up rough diamonds as a step in the fashioning of brilliants. Return to Top » ...
This cut is not as fiery or brilliant as most of the new cuts, but it has a romantic and classic look and stands apart from round brilliants.
where the best stones occur in greatest abundance; the Governor of Chanthaburi is charged with the exploitation and sees to it that the stones reach the palace, where some second-rate Malay lapidaries polish them and cut them into brilliants.
 See also: Brilliant, Diamond, Stone, Shape, Cut
  
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