Why Use Auto Exposure Lock?
Here's a handy one for you point-and-shoot photographers. Have you ever wanted to get one part of the scene just right, but you could never get the colors to pop out?
Exposure Lock
There are times when the main subject of a frame is not in the center of the frame where metering is taken from.
Use exposure lock or manual exposure mode to keep the exposures constant. If you use automatic exposure there will be just enough difference in exposures to make the images appear to flicker when played back.
Autoexposure Lock
Some digital cameras feature an exposure lock as part of the autoexposure metering system, which is extremely useful for scenes with a high contrast between the light and dark areas.
Auto-Exposure lock (AE-L). Locks an automatic exposure setting in the camera's memory.
Flash exposure lock (FEL).
EOS cameras (type A) which support E-TTL also support flash exposure lock when used with EX flash units. This feature lets you lock flash settings in, then optionally recompose the image before taking the final photo.
Exposure lock . Has its uses as well.
Multiple exposure switch. Probably near the wind on lever, if you have one. Allows you to make multiple exposures on to one frame.
Auto-Exposure Lock. This allows you to take a meter reading from a particular part of the frame, then lock that exposure while you re-compose the shot.
Ambient Light ...
Auto exposure Lock. Metering feature that used to hold the exposure setting when used in the automatic mode.
Auto Exposure lock
AE
Automatic Exposure. A method of linking the camera exposure settings to the ambient or reflected light level.
Automatic Exposure lock is the ability to lock exposure settings (aperture and shutterspeed) calculated by the camera over a series of images.
I use Auto Exposure lock and / or exposure compensation instead to arrive at the correct exposure.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Few cameras meet all these requirements. I wish more did.
Focus and exposure lock
Where you point the camera before locking focus and exposure can make the world of difference in how well a photo is exposed. This technique is effective and easy to learn.
Framing shots with a LCD ...
AE LOCK - Auto Exposure Lock or "AE-L" - permits you to take an exposure meter reading from part of a scene and to keep the reading to apply it to the entire composition.
I always keep the camera in aperture priority, using the old technique of ‘compose, move, spot meter, exposure lock, focus, recompose and fire’, which actually works a lot quicker than it sounds.
The only user assignable button is an AEL (autoexposure lock) button that can be set to lock AF or AE. Sigma's nod to the new "quick settings adjustment" features that are showing up on many cameras is a "QS" button.
AE-lock: Another must have feature is AE-lock (Automatic Exposure Lock). In aperture priority and shutter priority as well as program modes, you can lock exposure and recompose your shot.
Make use of the exposure lock feature found in most digital cameras. Say you're taking a picture. Position the subject in the center of the photo, then lock the exposure (depress the shutter button half-way).
As long as your camera has auto-exposure lock, you can still bracket...only you'll do so by "fooling" the camera. Here's how... First, point your camera at the sunset and take the indicated exposure.
Advanced cameras offer some kind of Auto Exposure Lock (aka AE Lock, Exposure Memory Lock or EV Lock).
Most cameras come with auto-exposure or exposure lock features. Auto-exposure tends to be most useful for amateurs. Experts recommend that you use the exposure lock mechanism in situations with highly contrasting light or with backlighting.
One technique that P&S users should get into is using the auto focus and exposure lock that most cameras have when you half press the shutter button half way down. Most cameras will auto focus only on subjects centred in the middle of the screen.
Most cameras have "exposure lock" to hold this setting while we compose the picture.
Make sure no land is showing and no clouds are in the viewfinder.
3. Take a reading off the sky. If your camera has an exposure lock option, aim at the sky as above, press the exposure lock.
4. Compose, focus, and shoot.
This means I've centered the viewfinder to this spot, pressed the exposure lock key (or hold the shutter release button) and shifted the scene back to the final image before shooting.
Typical scenes for Spot or Partial Metering ...
Digital Photography Glossary: A
AE Lock - Stands for 'Auto-Exposure Lock', which enables you to take a light meter reading from a part of the frame, then hold that setting while composing the image.
Then keep those settings (via exposure lock or manual mode), re-compose your photo, and fire away.
Be especially careful to keep the sun out of the frame while you take a meter reading: Aim the lens at a bright area of sky just to the left or right of the sun itself; either set this reading manually, or use your exposure lock to hold the setting ...
If your subject is off-centre and has a very bright or very dark background, metering from the whole frame may fail to provide the correct exposure. Your camera's Auto Exposure Lock (AE-L) facility can help here.
since flash metering occurs after your camera meters for ambient light, it is important not to use the auto exposure (AE) lock setting when using the focus and recompose technique. If available, one should instead use flash exposure lock (FEL).
This allows you to control when to AF or not and usually, the Shutter Release becomes an Exposure Lock button when pressed half way.
You can use your jeans, a gray photo backpack, grayish tree bark, a rock, etc. Once you have this reading, push the Auto Exposure lock button on the camera to lock and retain that reading in place, and then re-compose the picture and shoot.
priority mode) where your right forefinger falls; the main "spin" dial where your thumb falls (it's used to set exposure compensation, most of the time); the "joystick" (used to select the autofocus point) just above it and the exposure lock and ...
He can set an exposure by metering for the highlights or the shadows, so that area is shown accurately in the final picture. This can be done by using exposure lock on your camera.
If there is no manual control you can often preset the exposure using an auto-exposure lock or exposure compensation. The subject based program modes are often a waste of time and don't really bring much to the package.
 See also: Camera, Exposure, Image, Digital, Shutter
  
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