Shooting at eye level
It's certainly a habit of mine, and is probably a trap that many photographers from around the world fall into. But it can be very easy to just shoot at eye level, standing with feet shoulder width apart and a camera to your face.
Getting down at eye level might make you look prey size and significantly raise the interest of a predator you might be photographing. Always watch your subject for indications it may do something unexpected and never put yourself too close to any animal, especially dangerous carnivores.
Eye level findersEdit
Other optical viewfinders of old cameras are placed upon the camera top as small rectangular "telescope". Since the 1950s these viewfinders were more and more integrated into the camera bodies.
Eye Level Electronic Viewfinder: Some Bridge cameras have an eye level electronic viewfinder which makes for
better viewing when framing and composing a picture. electronic viewfinders are useful in bright light situations when
the LCD screen cannot be viewed clearly.
Eye Level Finder type
Eye-level electronic viewfinder, approx. 1.44M
Eye point / Diopter adjustment range ...
Get eye level with your subject
Sometimes, all it takes is a simple repositioning of the photographer to transform an image from being a simple snapshot, to being a nice portrait. The trick is to get to your subject's level.
- Eye level penta mirror type optical view finder
- Eye point 14 mm at -1 dioptre
- 1.2x Magnifier Eye Cup supplied
- Eye piece cap supplied (no shutter) ...
Get down to eye level.
6. Bring props
Many of the kids will not cooperate for obvious reasons: they don't know you or they're too young to understand what's going on. You'll need distractions. Bring some props (toys) with you and ask the family to bring some themselves.
Viewfinder. The eye level device you look through to compose the image.
To determine the main light distance, start with the light about 4 feet from the subject and about 2 feet above the subject's eye level. The light should be about a 45-degree angle to the lens axis.
Place a small mark on the wall that will be at eye level once you sit down. After sitting in the chair, cover one eye. With the other eye, stare at the mark on the wall without moving your open eye. Now, take a pencil that has an eraser on in.
When photographing children, shoot at their eye level. You will see the world as they see it if you shoot at their eye level, not yours.
Experiment with angles and perspective. Try to photograph what is going on from all angles. Change your lenses from wide to telephoto.
Do not pick it up from a corner, or even from two sides and hold it at eye level. Every time the photograph bends, even a little, this can break down the emulsion.
The higher up I can get, the more unique the view as most images tend to be shot from eye level of the photographer.
Bend your knees, however, and shoot your child from his own eye level and you're giving your viewer an immediate connection with him. Your viewer can make level eye contact with him, but that's not the only advantage.
Most images taken by amateur photographers are taken at eye level - this means most of these pictures are taken from the narrow range of 5 to 6 feet in height.
HOT LIGHTS Hot light well above eye level.
No matter what combination of location and light suits you, you'll generally incorporate a few of the same exposure principles. Overexposure, for instance, is key. Sometimes it only may be a half-stop, but other times as much as 1.
When photographing wildlife, the subject's space, eye level and image orientation are very important. Most photographers take pictures while standing because it's a natural position. However, most wildlife subjects are smaller or shorter than humans, so you look down on your subject.
Get down to your pet's eye level when you're photographing them, and always take several shots before they move, change position or leave the room. When you're taking pictures of wildlife, you'll need patience in addition to your telephoto lens.
Line up the horizontal center of each group or of an individual piece so that it is at eye level on the wall. Average eye level falls between 5 feet 8 inches and 5 feet 10 inches.
The ever popular head shot or head and shoulders portrait has to be taken from slightly above the eye level of the model. This height will bring out well defined facial features but if you don't maintain the right level then your photograph will have a distorted view.
More often than not, Stefano shoots on film with a waist-level camera such as a Mamiya RZ or a Rolleiflex, which he finds helpful because it gives him a much lower view point and makes him closer to the subject’s eye level.
If you don't have either of these, try to make sure your tripod is at eye level. If you need to lean your head over to see through the viewfinder, the job of keeping things level becomes that much harder.
Just like when photographing anyone else, shoot from eye level or above. Try some full body shots. Try some close up shots. One pose that is flattering for most pregnant women is to have them standing turned sideways with their back leg forward just a bit.
Placing the light above eye level does two things: the most obvious is that it places the catchlight fairly high in the eyes, making the eyes look bigger. At least as important but less obvious perhaps, it creates shadows that define the shape of the face and show its qualities.
Final Step: Shoot at the cat's eye level
'For this image, I placed my camera directly on the carpeted floor,' says Parker, 'and composed the photograph while laying flat in front of Max. For stability, I pressed the camera into the floor as I shot.
Too many photos are shot from the eye level of the photographer, and the resulting image is as mundane as the shooter's imagination. Crouch down and shoot up at your subject.
Imagine that we are all holding a camera at eye level and standing the same distance away from a stop sign. While the nature of our photographs may be the same, each one of us would have captured a different view of the same subject.
However, photos taken at eye level often appear ordinary, since that's the perspective that we're most used to seeing. Photos taken at above or below this height are therefore often perceived as more interesting.
The pet should fill the frame and the photographer's viewpoint should be near the eye level of the pet. When getting close with the camera isn't an option, zooming can help to achieve similar results and when all else fails cropping during the editing phase can also improve results.
Try shooting from very low, at a crab's eye level, or shoot towards the beach while wading in the water. Change where you shoot from and you change the entire feel of the picture.
Optical Viewfinder - An eye level viewfinder that is used to compose the photograph.
Optical Zoom - Means that the camera has a real multi-focal length lens, this is not the same as a "Digital Zoom" which magnifies the center portion of the picture.
The System: Leica X-1 Bright Line 36mm viewfinder lets you shoot at eye level, and the X-1 Hand Grip improves the camera’s holdability. The SF-24D TTL flash boosts the camera’s guide number to 65 at ISO 100. A series of elegant ever-ready cases are also available.
Try to take photos at subject's eye level, don't aim the camera up or down
Set up interesting poses (not "tin soldiers") for most of your photos
Aim for close up pictures in which you can easily see facial expressions rather than panoramic or large groups for most of your photos.
Shooting down is the normal angle but getting down at eye level, or even shooting up is a unique view. If you want things sharp, try to have them all fall in the same plane and have the camera parallel to that plane.
Shoot from slightly above eye level. In most cases, a raised camera angle accentuates the face's best features.
Sam's Second Shoot by Harsha K R ...
If sharpness is key, go for a tripod without a centre column, but which gets the camera to your eye level without having to extend every leg section.
Another feature to consider is spiked tripod feet, as these provide additional stability in boggy ground.
Macro lenses are particularly good for low-angle shooting. If you get to eye level with your subject, or even below it, you can turn a field of daisies into a forest, or a preying mantis into a towering monster.
Camera Angle. Various positions of camera placement relative to the subject's position. i.e. high, low, left, right, eye level, waist level, ground level, etc.
Candid Photographs. Unposed photographs of subjects during activity, most frequently taken without the subject's knowledge.
For close-up portraits of people, orient the camera to the portrait format. Keep the eye level of the subject 1/3 of the way down from the top of the frame.
Avoid having a distant subject in dead center of a frame.
Hampton Beach, NH ...
The same scene can appear very different depending on whether you choose to photograph it from above, below or at eye level. For a little variety, try climbing a few stairs or find an upper-level viewpoint to shoot down on a subject, or squat low or even lie down to angle your camera upward.
Most of us make the huge mistake of seeing only from eye level. That's the way we walk around, but rarely the best angle from which to make a photo.
I mean, literally get down to their level. Taking photos of your baby from their eye level will illustrate the baby's perspective, rather than the adult's. This technique will also save your child from a kink in the neck from always looking up! ...
Hold the camera just below your eye level, so that you can see over the top. Keep your head up-don't bend down. Adjust the zoom as needed. When you're ready to shoot, take a deep breath, let out some of it, then hold your breath as you gently, smoothly press the shutter.
Now you've tried that, get down from your chair, and crouch down. Get down so that the top of your desk is at eye level. Now look at your monitor. Different perspective again. The keyboard seems huge in the foreground.
For Group 1, 2 or 3 forward-facing seats you need to change up when their eye level is in line with the top of the seat.
3. Remember age is just a guideline ...
The same is true for the angle of your shot [source: Caputo]. Conventional wisdom says to take the shot at eye level or slightly above. Why not have your subject lay on the ground and take the picture from directly above? Why not tilt the frame dramatically and play with equilibrium?
Go to the appropriate spot with your "model" and vary the height of the camera. Taking the shot at eye level results in familiar spatial conditions, while a view from a very low camera angle captures the sky. The picture of the masks is taken against a very plain background.
A device employing a short rigid endoscope fitted with a right angle mirror at its tip, used to photograph scale models from a seemingly eye level viewpoint
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The ability to take photos at waist level means that you can snap portraits of your child at his or her eye level without getting down on the ground yourself .
It can be a fun challenge to get the shot you want when they're flying or crawling everywhere. My main composition suggestion is to be at eye level with your subject. Bugs are often in grass or on flowers and even if you're kneeling, you're still not at their level.
Conversely, when looking down upon a subject, such as small children or pets, the message is more deferential or humble. Try taking photographs of these subjects at their eye level for a different, perhaps more realistic perspective. You will notice a difference.
Telephoto lenses really come in handy to get in close! Try and take photographs of animals at their eye level. This gives the effect of you entering their world, from their perspective. I like the feeling this gives, it helps the viewer visualize what the animal's world is like.
Many subjects can be photographed at their eye level this way for better composition. Birds, smaller mammals, and even small children. You could invert the center post and mount your tripod upside down, but this will make operation very difficult. I tried this method once.
See also: Photograph, Camera, Photography, Photographer, Light