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Fast Lens
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Another fast lens which is overlooked by many people is the 200mm f-2.8 lens. This focal length is covered in many slower and faster zooms. However, the fixed 200mm f-2.8 has more to offer than you think. It is affordable and extremely sharp.

Fast lens motor is also important for sports photography
A fast lens motor is also important so it can autofocus quickly. For example, Canon offers a range of ring USM lenses that automatically focuses quicker than non USM.

Fast lens
A lens with a wide maximum aperture (f2.8 is a fast lens in a 35mm telephoto design). Often used in low light situations or when a fast shutter speeds are always required.
(see Aperture, Shutter speed & Tele) ...

Fast Lens A lens with a large maximum aperture, usually in the range of f/2.8 or larger. Because such a lens will allow more light to reach the film or image sensor, it will allow the use of faster shutter speeds.

FAST LENS - A lens that has an aperture that opens particularly wide, making it able to gather more light than a slower lens at its widest aperture.

Fast lens. Get the fastest (largest aperture) lens you can afford. A 70-200 2.8 lens is great for basketball, for example. A 75-300 4-5.

Fast lens
Is a lens with a wide maximum aperture ( low f number ).
Fat
File Allocation Table. A table that an operating system maintains on a hard disk that provides a map of the clusters that a file has been stored in.

-Fast lens - lens with a wide maximum aperture (low f number).
-Ferric chloride - bleaching solution used on negative materials.

Fast lenses are often complicated to manufacture and, as a result, they are usually more expensive than slower lenses. Lenses as fast as f/1.4 aren't uncommon, but you'll rarely see them with f-stops as large as f/1.0.

Fast lens that will replace the slow kit lens that came with your DSLR. Speed and...
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Home > Learn > Composition in Nature Photography ...

Fast Lens - See "Lens Speed."

Fill-In Light (or flash) - Additional light from a lamp, flash, or reflector; used to soften or fill in the dark picture areas caused by the brighter main light.

"Fast lens" is a relative description: It depends on the image format and the focal length. Considering 35mm film 24x36mm frame format, a fast lens with fixed focal length between 24mm and 135mm will typically have a maximum aperture of f2.5 or less.

A fast lens like the Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED IF AF-S VR Nikkor looks like an alphabet soup of descriptors but it sports (no pun intended) the features that make it a joy for use in action photography and many other subjects as well.

Although fast lenses provide greater light-gathering capabilities (85mm Æ'/1.8, for instance), you should try to avoid using the lens at its maximum aperture. Even fast zooms, such as a 70-200mm Æ'/2.

A “fast lens' is one with a large maximum aperture, such as f/2.8 or even f/1.4. The larger the lens aperture, the more it costs, the heavier it is, and the larger it is.

Now, the fast lenses. Only a handful of cameras are any faster than f2.8. Also, when you use the zoom, the maximum aperture almost always gets a lot worse - and those are the times when you need faster shutter speeds! ...

And although a fast lens can be very expensive, there are affordable primes out there, like the Canon f1.8 50mm which is $80, or the f1.8 85mm canon USM that is just over $300.

Fast ISO speeds and fast lenses make it easy to work in all but the most dim lighting conditions, but there are times when turning to electronic flash is a better and more predictable alternative.

com/alc/article/8654 Article: Use fast lenses for low light.Wide aperture lenses can see more in the dark

Most lenses are designed to work under normal lighting conditions.

For existing light pictures, your camera should be equipped with a fast lens-at least f/2.8, but preferably about f/1.4.

Shooting with fast lenses means you need less light and can achieve interesting effects using ultra-shallow depth of field. You often see photographers using 50mm f1.2 or 85mm f1.

To determine the right shutter speed for a balance of light, you need a wide and fast lens, a 14-24mm f2.8 lens, for example.

The terms slow and fast lenses refer to the maximum aperture of the lens. This is the maximum amount of light that a lens lets in. So the fast lens is the type of lens that allows more light and the slow lens is the opposite.

Finally, fast lenses are a great asset. If you have all three working for you, you’re ahead of the game.

The term "fast lens" usually applies to lenses that can be opened to a wide maximum aperture for the focal length. For example, a lens with a maximum aperture of f/1.8 opens wider, and is faster, than a lens with a maximum aperture of f/2.6.

Sport photography requires long fast lenses. Apertures of f/2.8 or faster are usually used, with the most common lens being the 400mm f/2.8. A sports photographer may also use 15mm Fisheye, 16-35mm, 70-200mm and 300mm lenses.

I used a 35mm Canon EOS1N, black and white film and fast lens wide open to create a very shallow depth of field, thus bring the attention to the face. This portrait is made without electronic strobe.

That doesn't mean that fast lenses aren't important. In particular the depth of field requirements to isolate a subject with a telephoto lenses are just as important as with film.

Many people think you need a fast lens to get them but in reality it's quite the opposite as the light that the fireworks emit is quite bright.

Fast lenses have very large apertures that let a lot of light in. They are called fast lenses because the more light they let in, the faster shutter speed you can use. These lenses are also ideal for low-light photography.

A fast lens transmits more light and has a larger opening than a slow lens. Determined by the maximum aperture of the lens in relation to its focal length. The speed of a lens is relative to it's focal length.

Fast lenses transmit more light and have larger openings than slow lenses. Determined by the maximum aperture in relation to focal length. Lens speed is relative: a 400 mm lens with a maximum aperture of F/3.

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Low light and night photography call for fast lenses what allow for very large apertures. If you want to take landscape images you will need a lens with a wide field of view.

One of the reasons that nature pros spend large amounts of money on fast lenses is to give them the ability to work in low light. If you can't afford the fast lenses, you can at least try fast film (maybe Kodachrome 200) to catch the "good light".

Opinion
I am used to Canon 40d with a fast lens, and wanted to have a little point and shoot.
I was interested about noise. Cos I like to take photos in theatres, etc.

8 300mm or some other long and fast lens like the pros. Very impressive artillery. But should you rush out and buy one? Not unless money means nothing to you. Longer lenses are available at higher prices! ...

This may seem quite confusing at first, so the easiest way to make sense of it is to remember the following: fast lenses are best suited towards successful photography in darker lighting conditions, ...

Lens Speed The largest lens opening (smallest f-number) at which a lens can be set. A fast lens transmits more light and has a larger opening than a slow lens.
Light meter (See Exposure meter) ...

Lens Speed is a semi-technical designation that rates or compares a lens' maximum f/stop value; i.e. a fast lens might have a maximum f/stop of f/1.4, conversely a slow lens might have a maximum f/stop of f/4.5.
Light Meter ...

Measured by the largest aperture at which the lens can be used. A fast lens has a larger maximum aperture and can transmit more light than a slow one. 2. The relative sensitivity to light of photographic film. See Film speed.

What's more, on fast lenses (and especially on telephotos, which magnify any defocus there is), your depth of field will be so shallow that even the tiniest movement after the focus is locked will cause the subject to be out of focus.

lens speed
the largest lens opening (smallest f-number) possible for a specific lens. (A fast lens transmits more light by way of a larger opening than a slow lens).

And you're right, I actually did not want a shallow depth of field because I wanted all of the photo in complete focus (including the wood grain of the table), so there was no reason to use a fast lens.

You can best achieve this by setting the camera to the Av or Aperture Priority setting. Click on to a wide setting (smaller f-stop number) - with a good, fast lens this could be as much as f/2.8, which is perfect for lowlight or night-time work.

sharp primeThis is the cheapest, sharpest and fastest (f/1.8) lens I own. As a prime lens, this lens is sharper than all my zooms, maybe even the L lens. It is quite a fast lens as well. It is the perfect candidate for indoor candid shots.

Blur A way of softening an image or part of an image. Bokeh The effect of a soft out of focus background that you get when shooting a subject, usually a portrait using a fast lens at the widest aperture such as f/2.8 or wider.

As you may imagine the lighting is poor and the cars are passing me at about 90 Mph. I use a Fast lens (Sigma 70-300, with f/2.8 all the way through) and bump the ISO to about 2000 without a flash, or 400 with a flash. So try bumping up the ISO.

Inspite of all this, if you are still unable to control the background, then the next best thing is to use a long fast lens like a 300/2.8.

A lens with a large maximum aperture (or a low f-stop like F2) is often called a fast lens. Many cameras have an aperture priority mode that allows you to adjust the aperture to your own liking. See also shutter speed.

A higher f-stop like F16 requires a slower shutter speed, which allows for a greater depth of field. Lenses usually have a minimum and maximum aperture. A lens with a large maximum aperture (or a low f-stop like F2) is often called a fast lens.

This is specifically a problem with fast lenses (f/2.8 and faster) where the DOF is extremely shallow wide-open. Please note that it is absolutely unrealistic to have a perfectly centered lens - it just does not exist.

See also: Fast, Camera, Photograph, Light, Lens