A chemical solution used for fixation.
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Techniques Glossary Fixer
Chemical used after developing and before washing to remove remaining light-sensitive halides by converting them into soluble salts. An image becomes stable to light once it's fixed.
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Fixer is used for processing all commonly used films, including black-and-white films, Kodachrome, and chromogenic films. In chromogenic films, the remaining silver must be removed by a chemical called a bleach fix, sometimes shortened to blix.
Fixer (Hypo)-A chemical, sodium thiosulfate, used to remove residual silver halides (grain) from films and prints when processing them. Fixer "fixes" the remaining silver halides in place on either film or prints. Fixer is also called hypo.
~. Solution, usually based on sodium thiosulphate, in which films or prints are immersed after development to convert the unexposed silver halides in the emulsion to soluble products that can be washed out. This prevents subsequent deterioration of the image.
~ - chemical solution used to remove unexposed silver salts from developed negatives and prints
Wetting - agent chemical solution which reduces surface tension of water ...
~ or "Fixing bath" or "Hypo" - The chemical solution used for fixation. It removes any photo-sensitive silver-halide crystals that were not acted upon by light or by the developer.
FLARE can show up as a plain area of unwanted bright light or in shapes matching the aperture.
~. Chemical (basically a solution of sodium thiosulfate plus potassium metabisulfite as acidifier). Used after development to make soluble those parts of a photographic image unaffected by the developer. Photographs can thereafter be handled in normal lighting.
A chemical solution (sodium thiosulfate or ammonium thiosulfate) that makes a photographic image sensitive to light. The ~ stabilizes the emulsion by converting the undeveloped silver halides into water-soluble compounds, which can then be dissolved away. Also called hypo.
-~ - chemical solution used for fixation.
-Flare - non-image forming light scattered by the lens or reflected from the camera interior.
Step 4: ~
Make sure it's at the right temperature and pour it into the developing tank. Agitate the tank a little and let sit for 3 to 3 1/2 minutes, using the agitation stick every minute.
Pour the ~ out and rinse the tank.
~: ~s dissolve the undeveloped silver salts, which can then be removed by washing. If this step were not carried out, the unactivated silver salts would become activated when exposed to light and cause fogging of the image.
A ~ erases all of the spots left behind during development.
Areas of a piece of film or photo paper that were not exposed (the white areas) are still light-sensitive before ~ is applied.
New ~ takes about 3 1/2 minutes, and as you recycle your ~ it will take up to 8 minutes to properly fix your negatives. Once your negatives are similar to the ones shown pour your ~ back into it’s container.
After the ~, the wet plate is washed in water once more for around 15 minutes before it's dried on the rack. It also can be dried gently over open flame to heat the plate for the next step, which is varnish.
~ Chemical solution used after development. Converts unexposed and therefore undeveloped silver halide into soluble salts which can be washed out leaving behind the now stable silver image and rendering the film insensitive to light. f-stop or f-number Relative size of a lens aperture.
Prepare the photo ~.
Prepare another tray that is of a similar size to the one used previously with photo ~. You can obtain photo ~ at most arts and crafts or photography stores, and should provide information as to the appropriate amount of water to add to the liquid.
Sites such as Flash ~s and Flash Media 911 warned users not to attempt to use common file recovery utilities on the cards, even if they can be seen or recognized by the programs.
the film vigorously in the stop bath and initially in the ~ because gases are released in these solutions and there is danger of air bubbles forming on the film surface. If you allow these air bells, or bubbles, to form, they may cause dark spots.
Acid ~: A chemical used to neutralize alkali. It is used in the final stage of processing to stop the action of alkaline bath.
Additive color process: A method of producing color images by mixing the three primary colors, red, blue, and green.
Decided to try Kodak T400CN Professional (C41 - B&W) as my wife complains every time I come home stinking of ~ - she REALLY hates it and I have to get straight in the shower. This, at least would reduce the pain.
Darkroom chemicals for film processing like developers, ~s, printing chemicals, stop bath chemicals etc
Chemical storage and jugs
Miscellaneous chemicals and darkroom equipment like ~ test solution, hypo clearing agent, wetting agent, changing plastic bags, safe lights, timers, and trays ...
Derek Kessler is EiC-at-Large for Mobile Nations and general ~. Previously, he ran webOS Nation, aka PreCentral.net. When not juggling mobile devices, he's a Sergeant in the Ohio Army National Guard, design nerd, armchair pundit, professional ranter, smither of words, and Star Trek fanfic author.
Chemical bath in which bleach and ~ have been combined! Used in many colour processes.
(see C41 & E6)
A Type of Tungsten Lighting from various manufactures, rated at 2000W.
(see Redhead & Tungsten light ) ...
AGITATION - Gentle movement of liquid photo-processing chemicals (developer, stop-bath, ~) during processing of film or paper in order to achieve uniform results.
AIR - A relatively large area of white space in a layout.
With luck, you won't get an expensive digital SLR that is a ~-upper.
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Hw to create a groovy "Old School" darkroom special effect without smelling like ~.
I loved high-contrast printing using Agfa #6 high-contrast paper. This legendary paper’s characteristics were that it produced practically no midtones.
See also: What is the meaning of Photograph, Photography, Film, Light, Image?