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Lens flare

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Hazy Lens Flare:
Step 4. Helpful Hints
We completed our primary task-getting rid of lens flare while shooting into the sun. But how do we get rid of lens flare while actully shooting the sun itself?

 


Lens flare (often referred to simply as "flare") is caused by a scattering and reflection of light inside the lens. Flare has two possible effects- a haze-like lack of contrast across the image or visible artifacts called flare patterns.

Lens Flare
Lens Flare is an unwanted, plume of light in a photograph due to shooting directly into a light source, thereby causing the light to reflect and scatter inside the lens.

Lens Flares - Irregularities in an image that are a result of reflections inside the lens.

Lens flare
The DP1's lens is quite prone to flare. This is probably caused (or at least contributed to) by the protruding front element of the lens.

lens flare
If light shines directly on a lens it will normally produce a series of bright circular shapes accross the image and degrade the contrast. This is referred to as lens flare and can be reduced or eliminated by using a lens hood or shade.

Lens flare. An optical feature of photography that is both a bane and a creative outlet. It is an effect produced by the reflection of light internally among elements of an optical lens.

Lens Flare
This is an unwanted reflection of light that you may see in the viewfinder or not until you view your picture. A lens hood will help you reduce or eliminate lens flare.
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Lens flare happens when non-image-forming light enters a lens and falls on thefilm or sensor. If the light is well diffused it lowers the contrast of the image.
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Ghost images and lens flare.
Bright spots of light, often taking the shape of the aperture, which appear in the camera viewfinder or in the final photograph when a lens is pointed at a bright light like the sun; ...

With the sun directly in front of the camera, the shadows may obscure detail and lens flare can result.

When the light is pointed toward the camera, one flap can be adjusted to prevent light from entering the camera lens and causing lens flare.

Use a lens hood to prevent extraneous light from hitting the lens and causing lens flare.
Don't use supermarket film.

Bright sun can cause reflection and lens flare, if you tilt the lens toward the sun, and these can be used to artistically enhance your photography. Overhead sun causes shadow and is usually unflattering for portraits.

Low contrast can have any number of causes including haze or smoke, low lighting levels, lens flare and just plain cheap glass.

When taking a picture, there are 100 things to consider: aperture, shutter speed, ISO, white balance, lens flare, and on and on, right down to that guy waaaaay in the back of the frame who is making an obscene gesture.

The main disadvantage with this set up is that it can cause lens flare and your photos will be washed out.

You're shooting into the sun, so exposure can be tricky, and you need to watch for lens flare, but the resulting image, usually silhouetted or with rim light, is often striking.

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- When you use rectangular filters (eg, Lee, Cokin, Singh-Ray), there may not be enough space to include a lens hood in order to prevent lens flare.

Angle: toward the lens from above and behind the subject, or above, behind, and slightly to the side of it, high enough to cut lens Flare. It is especially helpful for video images that may suffer loss-of-edge contrast.

The only purpose of coating lenses is to reduce lens flare by eliminating reflection off the surface of the glass; this has the effect of increasing contrast and giving images more "punch".

Don't be frightened to face the sun but watch out for lens flare which degrades the contrast of the image, see below. Either use a lens hood or make sure the angle of the camera is not too close to the sun.

[2] Today, most lenses are multi-coated in order to minimize lens flare and other unwanted effects. Some lenses have a UV coating to keep out the ultraviolet light that could expose photosensitive materials and result in inaccurate colors.

Flare - A series of bright polygons in the image caused by internal reflections within the camera's lens. Lens flare usually occurs when you shoot directly at a strong light source like the sun or a street lamp.

- For the strongest sunburst, remove ALL filters ... since it can cause extra lens flare or splotches of light in your picture.

Didn't notice the finger tip in front of the lens. Also, the lens was faced in the direction of the bright sun causing lens flare. Watch the viewfinder. Use a lens hood; shoot from different direction.

Lens hood
A short conical shaped tube that attaches to the front of a lens to shield it from extraneous light. Helps prevent lens flare, ghost images and loss of contrast. An inexpensive must have accessory for your camera system.

For example, many photographers have noticed problems with lens flare or bullet hole patterns seen within the bokeh from time to time. Some like the bokeh effect, others don't.

Contrast
A subjective judgment of the difference in brightness and density between shadow and highlight areas in an image. Contrast is affected by lighting, lens flare, film type, degree of development, enlarger type and quality of printing.

-Coated lens - lens with air-glass surfaces which have been coated with magnesium fluoride to reduce lens flare.

We found the same 10-stop total limit--interestingly 10-stops was the limit of the lens as well, as lens flare limits the average pro zoom to a 10-stop range.

Lens Hood A conical device placed at the end of a lens to block rays of light (most often from the sun) from entering the lens and causing glare or lens flare. Lens Shift VR See VR ...

When shooting backlit, exposure composition and/or the use of fill flash may be required to properly expose your subject. Protect your vision by not looking directly into a bright sun through your lens. Lens flare can be problematic so make sure to ...

The only thing a cheap filter will do, other than protect the front element and create a weather seal on Canon L glass is.. add lens flare / ghosts.

the subject, toward the camera lens, so that the subject stands out vividly against the background. Sometimes produces a silhouette effect. Always use something (a hand, a lens shade to avoid the light falls onto the lens - to avoid lens flares).

Instead of reacting conservatively, consider trying to make creative adjustments that turn technical weakness into creative strengths -something that adds impact or mood. An obvious example is lens flare.

I never could have captured that kind of detail and definition in the background had I been using a telephoto lens. By blocking the sun with the model, I eliminated lens flare and produced a sensual silhouette.

may seem to be an advantage of sorts-but once you've moved past the soft lighting stage, you'll want to control your lights-and you'll feel frustrated that whatever you do you'll find that bounced light has lowered the contrast, caused lens flare and ...

Possible parallax errors at close-up focusing
Rudimentary depth-of-field control
Focus control is indirect
polarizers cannot be used (without major obstacles)
potential mismatch between lens flare vs rangefinder ...

be in direct sunlight, shoot with your subjects facing north or south and with a flash to even out the shadows. Shooting west or east in the sun will either put you (or your subjects facing the sun. If it's the photographer you will have lens flare, ...

It does everything right: puts rim light on her hair and gets rid of harsh facial shadows, while the flash keeps her face from going flat and puts catchlights in her eyes. One precaution: Shade the camera with your free hand to avoid lens flare.

Having the sun in front of you generally gives washed out blue skies and harsh contrast between the sky and foreground. Having the sun in front can also cause lens flare image degradation. - return to table of contents ...

See also: Flare, Lens, Camera, Light, View