Minimum aperture
This is the smallest aperture that can be selected.
Minimum aperture
Techniques Glossary Minimum aperture
This is the smallest aperture that can be selected.
A small minimum aperture is also a good thing. It allows you to use a slow shutter speed on a bright sunny day. A slow shutter speed allows you to depict motion.
Minimum aperture does not matter, as the aperture setting that is used for lightning photos is slower than most lenses minimum apertures.
Minimum apertures for lenses are generally nowhere near as important as maximum apertures.
Maximum and minimum aperture
Zoom lenses specify the maximum aperture at both the wide angle and tele ends. A lens with the specifications 18-70mm F3.5-4.5 has a maximum aperture of 3.5 at 18mm and 4.5 at 70mm.
See your camera manufacturers lens list and look for maximum and minimum apertures, close-focusing distance, glass type (APO, ED, L, AT-X, etc.), lens construction (elements and groups), filter size (important when owning several lenses).
6 lens and chuck a 2x teleconverter on I get a whopping 800mm (16 power) lens, but it's minimum aperture is f11. To hand hold the lens I will require at least 1/1000th sec. shutter speed.
Use your lens at minimum aperture (to minimize Depth of Field) and take a few shots of the coin. Then look at the pictures with 100% magnification on your screen to determine if the coin is the sharpest part of the image (where you put your focus).
It is perfect if you need to use a very minimum aperture setting in your camera. You'll get a really sharp focus on your subject if you use this in you photography studio. Studio strobes can deliver instantaneous output.
In landscape work, we often try to achieve maximum depth of field and many people just stop the lens down to its minimum aperture and fire away, not really knowing if this will work or not until they get their film back.
Many digital cameras with fixed lenses have a fairly large minimum aperture of f/11 or so. The camera can't stop down far enough to prevent overexposing an image when used with a powerful strobe.
The camera's aperture and focus are usually preset for the entire dive: minimum aperture to enhance depth of field, and either minimum focus for the extension tube or infinity for the Nikonos close-up kit.
If the minimum aperture value of your lens starts flashing then your scene is too brightly lit.
[edit] Maximum and minimum apertures
The specifications for a given lens typically include the minimum and maximum apertures. These refer to the maximum and minimum f-numbers the lens can be set at to achieve, respectively.
Each lens has its own maximum and minimum aperture setting. The value written on the lens (such as an f/3.5-5.6) is the maximum (widest) aperture possible for that lens.
Shallow Depth of Field Photography ...
If the minimum aperture is Æ'/22, that's only a six-stop range. So when you get down to Æ'/22, you'll have to adjust the flash power to reduce it a full stop, simulating an Æ'/32 exposure.
Panasonic has sensibly limited the minimum aperture available in this mode to F11, which should reduce the risk of getting blurred images due to diffraction / camera shake / high ISO noise.
I just metered a daylight scene at my camera's minimum sensitivity of ISO 100 and minimum aperture of f/32 and was told that I needed a shutter speed of 1/50 to expose it properly.
Set your aperture wisely. Most lenses are sharpest two or three stops wider than the minimum aperture (usually around f/8 or f/11).
You could have a problem if you want to use a wide aperture to limit depth of field. Will your flash be too powerful? What if you're using a small digital camera and lens with a minimum aperture of, say, f/5.6?
Sometimes it's just not possible to get everything sharp at once. When you're zoomed in tight on a subject, there might never be enough depth to get everything sharp, even at the lens's minimum aperture.
lens offers its own range of potential f-stop settings, which is critical to remember if you have an SLR (single-lens reflex) camera that lets you attach dozens or hundreds of different lenses. Each lens has its own maximum and minimum aperture ...
At f32 there's a distinct sharpness loss, though still possibly acceptable if you're not making large prints. It's very clear that stopping down to minimum aperture, f45 in this case, gives a big drop in sharpness and should probably be avoided.
 See also: Aperture, Camera, Image, Light, Photograph
  
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