MODELING LIGHT - A tungsten light built into a studio flash that remains on while the flash is in standby mode, permitting the photographer to assess highlight and shadow areas that will be created when subsequently exposing the film in the brighter light of the flash.
A high powered bulb in a Mains Flash unit which is used to help judge what effect the flash light will have on the subject. It also describes a light used to enhance a three-dimensional effect.
(see Mains flash) ...
A light built into a flash unit that remains on while the flash is turned or on standby mode, permitting the photographer to assess highlight and shadow areas that will be created when subsequently exposing the film in the brighter light of the flash.
Strobe lights generally come with a built-in continuous modeling light which allows you to see how the lights and shadows fall on your subject prior to making the shot, ...
Modeling Light: A relatively weak incandescent light bulb mounted in an electronic flash head next to the flash tube. The continuous illumination from the modeling light makes it possible to preview the lighting effect that will be produced by the flash.
Some flashguns incorporate a ~ which enables you to see precisely where you are pointing the flash.
A characteristic of studio flashes is that they have a modeling lamp/light. This is a constant-source light that's used to help show where the light and shadows will fall on the subject.
The Hot Light in many Electronic Flash units which helps you to "see" the lighting. Tip: ~s are not universally proportional to the Intensity of the flash tube.
-~ is a light used to create a three dimensional effect achieved through the perception of form and depth.
-Modelscope is a device employing a short rigid endoscope fitted with a right angle mirror at its tip, used to photograph scale models from a seemingly eye-level viewpoint ...
~s are regular light bulbs in each head. They usually vary in intensity as you change the strobes' power settings.
Presuming it's dark in your your studio you can see the lighting effects without making a picture. it also means you can see what you're doing.
A good ~ is essential for low-light autofocus and night diving. Nocturnal Lights has a wide, bright beam. I use it for a primary light at night and for 105mm macro.
"Being down deep on a free dive near a whale and waiting after shooting four frames got pretty old." ...
Using the ~, make sure the line between light and dark runs directly down the center of your model's face, right down the tip of the nose. The model should be looking directly at the camera. This is what we call a split light portrait.
Proportional ~: Less expensive monolights simply provide an on-off ~ to give you some idea of what the final lighting effect will be. Those with proportional settings allow the ~ to vary with flash output.
A spotting light, also know as an aiming light or a ~, is a light that comes out of the strobe, lighting up the subject to help with auto-focus. I find very few people use this feature, most of the times strobes are not aimed exactly at the subject.
This visual effect is derived from the ~. Other light sources that may be added to the ~ to enhance the subject are as follows: Broad lighting-The main light completely illuminates the side of the face turned toward the camera.
In low light situations you may find yourself wishing for a ~. Canon's ring lights do have ~s and ~s are even more necessary with this accessory. This is because the 4.
Built-in LED light can be used to illuminate nearby subjects in dim light - especially useful when shooting video, as a ~ or as an AF assist beam (with Live View), providing up to four hours of continuous lighting with fully-charged AA batteries.
Since the flash heads contain little more than a flash tube, ~, and a reflector, they are pretty light, weight-wise, and don't require as sturdy a stand as monolights.
~ - A constant light that illuminates the subject and aids the photographer in composing the picture.
Power connector - The receptacle for the power cord.
Power switch - A switch to turn the monolight on and off.
For tripod-based studio work the stills mode is very good, allowing accurate manual focus and automatically increasing the brightness of the preview for work under ~s.
Since they are not on all the time, strobes often have low intensity ~s so you can see how the light will fall on the subject. Strobes are great, but cost hundreds, and usually thousands of dollars.
Especially useful at fast moving parties and events, the Two-Armed Bandit technique allows you to position yourself quickly and provide pleasing light from angles you could never get with a camera-mounted flash. It's all about flattering your subjects with a gentle ~ and creating plenty ...
in McKim's basement with some red and green cellophane wrap and a few strawberries. Her setup included a Paul C. Buff Einstein monolight with a beauty dish and a Canon Speedlite 580EX as a secondary source. For a dark, mysterious mood, she lit her subject with the monolight's ~.
When it comes to photographing interiors, trunks and engine compartments, then open shade, diffuse lighting or low-angled sunset light usually excel. Fill-flash or "painting" with a ~ also can add needed highlights.
If your flashgun has a swivable head, it lets you bounce light off a white ceiling or wall to give a nice soft ~. For even more creative effects, use the flashgun off camera and connect it with a synch lead.
If you intend to work with studio lights, position them and use the ~s to preview the shadow’s intensity and distance. The next time you’re out in the field, if you’re not already a shadow shooter, take note of them and work them into your compositions.
A digital camera is best for complex flash setups because the results of instantaneous bursts of light are inherently non-intuitive, even though some studio flashes have "~s" and some fancy portable flashes have modeling-light-like preview modes.
See also: What is the meaning of Light, Camera, Photograph, Subject, Photography?