Due to the way different lenses or zoom settings affect perspective, it pays to know what focal length to use for certain subjects.
In landscape photography for instance the idea mostly is to show a lot of the scene in front of you.
The Pentax X90 produces sharp output at most zoom settings, the extreme tele end is particularly good considering the 26x zoom range (although there is some visible CA).
Whatever the camera or technology, some basic facts apply: Camera shake increases as telephoto zoom settings increase because these lenses magnify vibrations.
Vary your images by using different viewing angles, distance from subject, zoom settings etc. By making many, but slightly different exposures of a scene, you are more likely to get that special shot.
Remember that the flash head will zoom to the nearest zoom setting that is less or equal to that of the focal length of your attached lens.
140mm zoom setting. Click to enlarge and you'll see a bit of motion blur. A cloudy day forced a shutter speed of 1/250th at f/5, even with the ISO bumped up slightly to 200. The stabilizer on the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.
If you can't focus, you may be too close for the lens or its current zoom setting.
Maximum shooting distance refers to how far back you can get from a subject while still filling the image frame.
Use the middle aperture and zoom settings of your lens. You can get sharper images by using the middle apertures and zoom settings of your lens. The optics of a lens is the best in the middle, creating sharper photographs.
This way you can dictate the zoom zone and set your flash spread to the available zoom setting closest to your lens' focal length.
I'll look at my EXIF data and see exactly what lenses or zoom settings I used last time. Often I'll discover that I didn't use some lenses, so I won't bother bringing them next time.
Flash Extender is a device that can increase a flash's light output by up to 3 stops of light depending on one's flash zoom setting.
Flash Synchronization ...
Zoom lenses can vary depending on how far in or out they are zoomed. Test for the above things at a few different zoom settings.
4
Get out and shoot.
With an extension tube, each time you change the zoom setting you may have to move the camera to get focus back. Don't forget that you can increase magnification by 1.4x or 2x using a teleconverter too.
Most lenses are sold with dedicated shades into which manufacturers have invested R&D money to match the shape and size to the lens. They are designed to not vignette even at the wide zoom settings and do an ample job to fight flare.
This is irrelevant unless it performs well, but the ability to zoom from 10mm to 17mm on the same dive is pretty powerful--as the comparisons show, with both images shot from the same distance and changing the zoom setting (above).
I have been using the lens from the 13-15mm range because I really don’t care for the vignette that is produced at the wider zoom settings. The best part? My subject is tack sharp.
The combination of these technologies reduces the blurring effect of both hand-shake and subject movement even further to provide sharp, clean and clear results even at the longest zoom settings or in the most challenging lighting conditions.
 See also: Zoom, Camera, Shooting, Image, Light
  
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